Development of the emulsion base composition when creating the medicinal cosmetic product used in androgenetic alopecia
Keywords:androgenetic alopecia, emulsion base, emulsifiers, gelation agents, biopharmaceutical research, microscopic research
Androgenetic Alopecia (AA) treatment nowadays is still a difficult task of trichology and cosmetology as the range of medicines affecting the disease pathogenetic link and being suitable and safe to use is limited. Bearing all that in mind an increased attention is paid to substances of the plant origin based on phytosterols and flavonoids. Phytosterols are inhibitors of 5α-reductase – the enzyme, which is responsible for appearance of AA, while flavonoids strengthen the cell wall and improve the skin circulation. Taking all that into account it is important to develop a medicinal product (MP) in the form of emulsion for external use, which contains a dry extract of Saw palmetto (rich in phytosterols) and the tincture of Japanese Sophora (the source of flavonoids). The pharmacological activity of medicines for dermatological use largely depends on the nature of a base-carrier of active substances. Thus, the article presents the research results of the emulsion base composition development. At the first stage 16 formulations of the emulsion bases with the pumpkin seed oil introduced in their composition as the oil phase have been considered. Emulsifiers and the gelation agent solutions (sodium alginate, xanthan gum, carboxymethylcellulose, Carbopol) have been used as stabilisers of the heterogeneous system. Identification of the colloid and thermal stability has been performed for the bases that are homogeneous in their appearance immediately after manufacturing. The bases that had been tested were subjected to microscopic and biopharmaceutical research that allowed to find the size and homogenity of the particles of the oil phase and determine the effectiveness of biologically active substances (BAS) release from the bases-carriers. On the basis of the studies conducted it has been found that the bases that contain gelation agents such as Carbopol, sodium alginate and xanthan gum, emulsifiers – Tween-20 and cetyl alcohol have the optimal properties.
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